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6 Tips for Beginner Bonsai Tree
Caretakers
Bonsai trees are a wonderful hobby to
enjoy for a lifetime. However, when most
people start out, most of their bonsai
trees fall sick and die within a few
weeks. Bonsai trees are extremely
sensitive to their conditions and the
caretaker needs to learn how to properly
take care of these wonderful and
attractive plants. Here are a few of the
most commonly asked questions about
caring for bonsai trees, and their
answers.
Q: What about selecting the proper
containers, and should they have drain
holes?
A: All containers have one or more drain
holes; otherwise the trees will not be
healthy, they will soon look sickly and
finally die.
Q: What proportion between tree and
container do you advise?
A: What is generally considered the ideal
or artistic proportion is the tree 80%
and the container 20%; or for dwarfer
shrubs or low spreading trees, the plant
60% and the container 40%. In general,
the smaller containers are better.
In a shallow oblong or elliptical
container, the tree should be planted at
a point 70% of the distance from the
right or the left end, according to the
spread and shape of the branches, so that
the bulk of the tree greenery is centered
in relation to the container. In a square
or round container, the plant is placed
in the center, except cascade forms;
these are planted toward the edge.
Q: I need information on pruning, both
theory and practice.
A: Both root pruning and proper pruning
of branches are important elements in
caring for bonsai. The constant renewal
or re-growth of the root system is
essential to the proper health of the
trunk and branches above ground. The root
system will itself remain healthy only if
properly pruned. This operation is
associated with transplanting, and
detailed directions of that can be found
for free at
http://www.BonsaiTreeGuide.com -- the
fundamental rule in root pruning is to
keep the root system "happily"
within the limited dimensions of the
container.
Q: Suppose I find a tree 3 feet tall at a
commercial nursery that has healthy
low-growing limbs and other qualities
that would make a good bonsai. Shall I
buy it?
A: Yes. But understand that it will need
special culturing. When you get home with
it (assuming that it was balled and
bur-lapped at the nursery), here are the
main steps to take:
1) Pot it in a container large enough not
to disturb the root ball. This may be a
large commercial clay pot or a small
wooden tub. Better yet, make a square or
rectangular container, 6 to 8 inches high
and just wide enough to accommodate the
root ball. Fill in with additional soil
around the root ball, and press firmly.
Leave an inch at the top of the container
to facilitate adequate watering.
2) A tree 3 feet high is too tall for a
good bonsai. Cut off the terminal 1.5
feet (approximately). Make the cut just
above a side branch that can then be
wired into the terminal position.
3) After 2 years in the container, with
appropriate and continuous pruning and
wiring of side branches, as needed, the
tree should be transplanted to a
container of smaller dimensions, both
shallower and smaller in diameter. After
a year or two in the smaller container,
transplant to a still smaller authentic
bonsai pot, and you are on your way!
Q: Should one deprive the little trees of
as much water as possible?
A: Bonsai should be kept drier than
ordinary ornamental plants in pots; but
if the object is to dwarf the trees or to
keep them dwarfed, it is no use to make
them bone-dry. Want of water only makes
them stunted or unhealthy.
If there is such a thing as a fundamental
principle in watering bonsai, it is this:
water liberally but be sure that the soil
drains amply. In most cases, it does not
matter how many times a day bonsai are
watered if the soil has perfect drainage
and does not hold the slightest excess of
water.
This fundamental principle may be
modified to suit the individual case,
according to the kind of soil obtainable,
the climate, the kinds of trees grown,
the containers used, and the amount of
time one can spare each day for bonsai.
Q: What do I need to know about winter
care?
A: Winter care differs for hardy and
non-hardy or tender plants.
Hardy plants are those that can live
outdoors in the coldest weather without
danger of winterkilling. They are not
house plants but are real outdoor plants.
Hardy species growing in bonsai
containers present a special problem if
left outdoors in below-freezing winter
weather. Soil in the containers will
freeze, and the containers will break.
Moreover, it is impossible to properly
water bonsai growing in firmly frozen
soil.
If a sun porch or cold but light room is
available where the night temperature
never falls below about 36 degrees F,
this would provide a good place for
wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai.
Here is another suggestion for wintering
hardy or semi-hardy bonsai in a freezing
climate: keep them in an insulated deep
cold-frame. It should be shaded by a lath
house. The soil in bonsai pots, with such
protection, should never freeze if the
night temperatures do not go much below 0
degrees F. The bonsai should be watered
as needed, and on warmer non-freezing
winter days, it is well to remove the
protective covering and give the plants
full air. Be sure to replace the covering
sash before sunset!
Many non-hardy or tender species trained
as bonsai should be treated as house
plants and never left out in the cold.
Just follow these few tips to help ensure
that your bonsai trees stay healthy and
attractive for decades to come. However,
as with most hobbies and skills,
experience will be the ultimate teacher.
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